Graceland

Paul Simon said it all. Memphis is Elvis and Graceland is his memorial. It is unbelievable and yet not what I expected. The mansion and grounds are lovely, but the area has become tired and commercial. The furnishings are so 70's and who wants to remember shag carpet?

Jeff and I had left Nashville early and drove west on Route 40. We stopped at the Loveless Cafe for breakfast. I read that it is famous for biscuits and smoked meats. It did not disappoint. The day heated up well into the 80's and we arrived in Memphis.

Our campground was directly across the street from Graceland and behind the Heartbreak Hotel. One street was aptly named Hound Dog Way and we stayed on Shook Up Alley. After visiting Graceland, Elvis's cars and airplanes the afternoon was quite pleasant considering the sweltering heat. Ziggy and I relaxed in a shady area next to our RV while Jeff napped in the A/C.

Ziggy has been an interesting travel companion so far. The first two days were hard for her and she stood the entire way. She kept making circles between the couch and visiting us up front. We continuously asked her to get back and she got very nervous. So we gave up on the discipline and she decided to behave beautifully. She occasionally visits, but mostly looks out her window from her vantage point on the couch. Of course she sleeps right in the middle of our bed so Jeff and I arrange ourselves around her.

As the sun began to lower in the sky we set off in search of Beale Street and ribs. Decided a good way to view the area was a horse drawn carriage ride. We found Chester and Ken near Beale Street and they took us for a ride around downtown and the Mississippi Riverbank. Chester is a very old Belgian Draft Horse. Ken says they can’t calculate his age because it predates carbon dating. He was quite a character but did give us a pleasant ride around the city while Ken filled in all the history.

Beale Street is lively with neon signs and blues music drifting out to the street. We were on a quest to find the Rendevous. I had read that they had the best dry ribs in Memphis so we walked several blocks and into an alley to find it. The entryway next to a few dumpsters wasn’t impressive, but the inside was. Downstairs were a few hundred people eating ribs and drinking beer. What an operation! You place your order and the waiter walks into the kitchen, picks up the paper plate load of pork and brings it to your table. Jeff was very satisfied and I enjoyed really good chicken nachos complete with barbeque sauce.