Thursday, April 03, 2014

Silent Night

It is about 6:00 pm and we have gotten off the bus and into a Toyota pickup with two Jordanians. They are taking us to the Bedouin camp and soon we pulled over with a flat tire. They had no spare, so they flagged down another truck who helped out. Luckily it was two guys from their area and they had a tire and a jack. It took a while using rocks and a metal pipe to dislodge the tire.


Finally we had a good tire and started out again, it was dusky now and the scenery defies words. Take Bryce Canyon and Yosemite and put them on steroids and that is a beginning. Rock formations and magnificent colors were all around us as we rode in the back seat.

We got to a tire place and left our flat there and then drove past an elaborate building complex welcoming us to Wadi Rum. Next we we stopped in a residential area to pick up some firewood. There our driver said his younger brother would drive us as he had to make arrangements about a new tire. It was getting darker now and the brother looked about 12, but said he was 17. He was a decent driver and kept eating sunflower seeds or something that took his attention away from driving. Now we were in the Wadi Rum and there are no roads. Just miles and miles of dirt with ruts. I asked how he know where he was going and he asked, "Do you know how to get to your house?"

We did see some other vehicles with tourists which made us feel a little better and it kept getting darker and darker. Finally he stopped at Camp 1 to drop off the wood. There was lots of luggage there, but no people as they were out on a tour. The cook gave me some Bedouin tea which is dark and very sweet.


He showed us a dorm style tent and we were prepared to stay there. But no, we had to go to Camp 2 which is more special. Now it is dark and other trucks had on headlights, but not us!

We rode and rode and, eureka, he finally pointed to a huge rock and in front of it was a large camp. As we pulled up we saw normal looking people milling around and even a family with children. We were so relieved. They have electricity and real toilets and I am so glad I didn't insist on staying in the other place. We were shown to a hard sided tent set up off the ground with twin beds and lots of room. The sides of the tents are black and white stripes. The black is sheep wool and the white is camel hair. They are woven by Bedouin women. Each bed had a pillow and heavy blanket. The walls and ceiling inside had blanket tapestries while the floor was covered with mats. It is dark now and cold. The bathroom building has lights on, but no lighting in the camp area. One side has all the accommodations and the other side has several large tents and a fire pit with seating. 

We settled in and met the family who are Jordanians living in England. Lovely people. There is also a group of French hikers here and so friendly. We all met to sit around the fire which is acacia wood, and then walked over to a covered pit where they had cooked our dinner underground all day.


It was delicious, tender chicken with grilled tomatoes and onions. Everything was set up in the large tent which had seating and tables all around the edges. The dinner was fabulous.


First we had tea and then lentil soup with lots of lemon. They had real plates and silverware, but no knives. The chicken was good with rice, salads, mashed potatoes, hummus and tehina with pita. They gave us water and everyone talked and enjoyed.




The sky is so dark here that the stars jump out at you. There is a crescent moon and we enjoy star gazing with the assistance of Jeff's Star App. We are so happy and have never been in such an exotic place. We had talked about this and decided that Mombasa, Kenya, was our most exotic adventure, but this may surpass that. 

Now we are in bed and set up using our flashlights. The French group is singing and clapping around the campfire and we can hear them clearly. There is also someone singing in Arabic. Tomorrow we will have breakfast at 7:30 and our driver is coming at 10:00 to take is on a jeep tour and then back to the border crossing. The movie Lawrence of Arabia is set in this area and was filmed here. We kept meaning to watch it and hope to do so when we get home.

This is one day we will never forget. 

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